Pairing solid-state preamps to tube monoblocks

kofi@dixcoveventures.com -- Fri, 12/11/2009 - 10:33

I've just about giving up on getting my tube preamps to stay alive in Ghana. The current seems to play havoc with them, but not with the monoblocks or the other solid state pieces in my system.
I would like to know what to look out for (sensitivities, impendances) as I start looking for an appropriate entry level solid state preamp. I'm leaning toward Naim, but open to other recommendations.

Steven Stone -- Fri, 12/11/2009 - 13:16

What about a current/voltage stabilizer?

The Monster AVS 2000 (which is a large computer-controlled Variac) or the PS Audio Premiere (which re-generates AC power) might be the way to go.

Also generally tube gear is MORE tolerant of voltage fluctuations than modern solid-state gear.

Another option is to look into 12-volt music systems that could be driven by a lead cell car battery. You'd be surprised how many DACs and preamps are actually 9 or 12-volt designs that use wall-wart transformers to generate their power.

Also car audio gear from companies such as JL Audio can rival home gear for sound quality. You could put together an entire system that runs "off the grid" if you wish.

Steven Stone
Contributor to The Absolute Sound, EnjoytheMusic.com, Vintage Guitar Magazine, and other fine publications

kofi@dixcoveven... -- Fri, 12/11/2009 - 14:18

These are all great ideas, and I knew that tube gear was more tolerant, but for some reasons by Golden Tube and VTL preamps just won't work anymore, while my Naim CDX still work, as do the VTL monoblocks. The problem is that it is difficult to find any of the components you mention around here. Could I really drive Audio Physic Virgos with JL Audio gear? This all very eye-opening.

kofi@dixcoveven... -- Fri, 12/11/2009 - 14:22

And I also have some pretty decent stabilizers.

Wim J (not verified) -- Thu, 01/14/2010 - 12:20

I know a guy in africa (somewhere) who built his own stabilizer with two AC engines.
On engine is running 3000 RPM and is powered from the grid. It has a heavy flywheel which is physically connected to another AC engine. This last engine is functioning as a generator. It also runs at 3000rpm ( 50Hz) and powers his HiFi and PC.
This setup is cheap an very OK to deal with short power interruptions (µseconds to a few minutes). He did have a lot of problems with his PC breaking down because of the unstable grid. Since he installed this setup with the AC engines it never broke down again.
OK, you should place this somewher outside and use a good balanced flywheel . If i'm not mistaken he use a car rim and tire as a flywheel and filled the tire with water. Heavy enough to have some kinetic energie to bridge the power-gaps
Finding AC engines and a rim with tire can not be a problem where you are, I don't know about water ;-)

Anonymous_is_a_registed_user??!! (not verified) -- Thu, 01/28/2010 - 13:21

" ... I know a guy in africa (somewhere) who built his own stabilizer with two AC engines.
On engine is running 3000 RPM and is powered from the grid. It has a heavy flywheel which is physically connected to another AC engine. This last engine is functioning as a generator. It also runs at 3000rpm ( 50Hz) and powers his HiFi and PC. ..."
Generally such a system is not legal according to electrical codes and the power company's terms of service. During a power failure, it's possible for the grid-connected engine to produce power into the grid, as it's still being driven by the flyweel as much as the customer-side generator is.
Power being fed back into the grid during a zero-power situation means any power company repairman working on the line and in a known shutdown state (for repairs) can still be shocked by the current being fed back into the grid; you are energizing the line.
Now, what works in Africa may have a lot more to do with little or no regulation, but rest assured, if the power company ever sees the device, they will demand it be removed before they will hook up the power to that consumer again.