How to Choose Interconnects and Loudspeaker Cables (TAS 197)

 

Excerpted and adapted from The Complete Guide to High-End Audio (Third Edition).
Copyright ©1994–2009 by Robert Harley. hifibooks.com

 

Loudspeaker cables and interconnects are an important but often overlooked part of the playback chain. The right choices of each can bring out the best in your system. Conversely, poor cables and interconnects—or those not suited to your gear—will keep your hi-fi from achieving its full musical potential. Knowing how and which cables to buy ensures the best possible performance at the lowest cost. 

 

 

How to Choose Cables and Interconects

Ideally, every component in your system—including cables and interconnects—should be absolutely neutral, imposing no sonic signature of its own. Since this is never the case, you’re forced to select cables and interconnects with colorations that counteract the rest of your system’s colorations. For example, if your system is a little on the bright and analytical side, mellow-sounding interconnects and cables can take the edge off the treble and make listening to music more enjoyable. If the bass is overpowering and heavy, lean- and tight-sounding interconnects and cables can firm it up. A system lacking palpability and presence in the midrange may benefit from a forward-sounding cable.

Selecting cables and interconnects for their musical compatibility should be viewed as the finishing touch to your system. A furniture maker who has been using saws, planes, and rasps will complete his work with steel wool or very fine sandpaper. Treat cables and interconnects the same way—as the last tweak to nudge your system in the right direction.

Cables and interconnects won’t correct fundamental component or electrical incompatibilities. For example, if you have a high-output-impedance power amplifier driving current-hungry loudspeakers, the bass will probably be soft and the dynamics constricted. Loudspeaker cables won’t fix this problem. While you might be able to slightly tighten up your soft bass with the right cable, it’s far better to correct the problem at the source—a better amplifier/loudspeaker match. Remember, a cable or interconnect can’t effect an absolute improvement in the sound. The good ones merely do less harm; they won’t make a poor system or bad component-match sound great. Start with a high-quality, well-chosen system and select cables and interconnects that allow that system to achieve its highest musical performance

A typical hi-fi system will need one pair of loudspeaker cables (two pairs for bi-wiring), one long pair of interconnects between the preamplifier and power amplifier, and several short interconnect pairs for connections between source components (such as a turntable or CD player) and the preamplifier. (Systems based on an integrated amplifier obviously don’t need the long interconnect between a preamplifier and power amp.)

Once you’ve got a feel for how your system is—or will be—configured, make a list of the interconnects and cables you’ll need, and their lengths. Keep all lengths as short as possible, but allow some flexibility for moving loudspeakers, putting your preamp in a different space in the rack, or other possible changes in positioning. Although you want to keep the cables and interconnects short for the best sound, there’s nothing worse than having interconnects that are 6" too short. After you’ve found the minimum length, add half a meter for flexibility.

Interconnects are often made in standard lengths of 1, 1.5, and 2 meters. These are long enough for source-to-preamplifier connections, but too short for many preamplifier-to-power-amplifier runs. Such long runs are usually custom-made to a specific length. Similarly, loudspeaker cables are typically supplied in 8' or 10' pairs, but custom lengths are readily available. It’s best to have the cable manufacturer terminate the cables (put the spade lugs or banana plugs on loudspeaker cables, and RCA or XLR plugs on interconnects) rather than trying to do this yourself.

Concentrate your cable budget on those cables that matter. Priority should be given to the sources you listen to most often. For example, you may not care as much about the sound of your tuner as you do about your CD player. Consequently, you should spend more on interconnects between the CD player and preamplifier than between the tuner and preamp. And because all your sources are connected to the power amplifier, this link must be given a high priority. But understand that any component—even a tuner—will benefit from good interconnects.

Comments

Adam Green (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 10:28

Has avguide.com or any other reviewer published instrument testing or comparison of cables?
I mean tests of electrical properties, not subjective comments on auditioning.

Amused (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 16:47

LOL ... it must be very handy for you not having to be home to listen to your music. You just set up your "listening equipment" then go out on the town. :-)

We may not as yet know what to measure to identify the readily audible differences between (some) cables, but contrary to what some short sighted, self appointed afficionados claim, this does NOT mean there can't be audible differences. And no, better sounding cables are not always horrendously expensive. or complex. And in a lifetime in this insane hobby, I have never seen or heard a single one use Monster. They tend to be a bit of a joke in high end circles IME and IMHO.

JohnnyMann (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 11:22

Theres been so many independent test that proven that no expert can till the difference betwen a monstacable for 2000 euro and an old coathanger for 10p.

So go figure "mr expert"

Gorm (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 13:48

Why are we still having to put up with this sort of intense ignorance; John, if your system is so opaque that you are unable to hear any difference in cabling (power, speaker or interconnect) or worse yet, if you base your opinions solely on others' then kindly climb back under your little rock.

The rest of the audio world (Studio engineers, Muscians and just plain music lovers) have long ago learned (and easily heard) tremendous differences between types and brands of cables and, happily for the audio (and Vidio) world, with this insight and new transparency, virtually all components in the playback system have been improved.

The challenge (for those of us who actually listen), is to decide which of the myriad differences bring us cloeser to the musical event that was recorded.

As I frequently attend live concerts and symphonies, and play in a small jazz band, it is not terribly difficult to asses which products come closer to the real sound of real instriments. But I suppose you have read some report somewhere that suggests it's all just in my imagination. Pity on you.

Douglas Kelly (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 13:31

I concur with Johnny Mann. Many tests have been done that have demonstrated on significant, qualitative difference between highly expensive cables and the relatively inexpensive cable of a monoprice or bluejeans. The most important aspect is the thickness of the "pipe". In the US, that would be an oxygen sealed cable of 10 or 12 AWG. The higher the number the narrower the "pipe" and the lower the performance.

Arthur Heber (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 14:04

I have spent a small fortune on both high end speaker cables and interconnects.Sadly I learned the hard way that this whole cable thing is a bunch of "snake oil medicine".There is absolutely no improvement in sound that I or others who auditioned my high end setup, between standard zip cord and the esthetically beautiful but otherwise a complete ripoff.

Matt (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 18:05

Sorry to hear you learned the hard way. ;( I've always figured that the money is better spent on better equipment amp speakers etc. Like it was previously mention even good old lamp cord 14 awg will work fine. Hell if it can handle 1500. Watts of electricity then 100 watts of audio should be a snap. Ever look at the wires just beyond the speaker connects? I'll bet they are 18 awg not #10 or 8...

Andrew (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 20:34

It would be commercially in my interest to sell expense thick cables to clients but I refuse to do so. My customers money is far better spent elsewhere. There is far greater gain to be had from creating a better room, even moving speakers and seating position than any perceived gain from "super" cables. As the owner of a custom home theatre design business and a member of the CEDIA, HAA and ISF I believe it is my responsibility to guide my customers in areas of honest benefit, yes good quality terminations are important electrically but as for cables (well terminated being a given and by that I mean well soldered/crimped etc, not expensive) changing the sound, bunkem....Dr Floyd Toole recently published his latest book and I attended his lecture, for those seeking the truth his years of diligent research says it all. and his book is a great read, likewise Rod Elliott an Australian researcher has looked well into this also and his great articles located at http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm under "cables" are well worth a look (the rest of the articles make a great read too). He has challenged the "thick" cable manufacturers to provide evidence and no-one has stepped forward. If you want a great system then you need to research room acoustics and test loudspeakers to find something that really performs well. As Floyd Toole say's "there is more information on the sidewall of a tyre" and sadly price is generally no reflection of speaker sound quality. This industry needs a shake up based on science and fact and not on profit and gain. Customers simply do not know who to trust anymore and shop staff are "trained" by product reps so what hope is there...? The next thing they will be telling us is copper is directional (oh hang on they already are!) Having said all this if thick speaker cables and power cables turn your crank, then knock yourself out but I would suggest you save your money and spend it where it counts.

jaymz (not verified) -- Fri, 11/27/2009 - 15:34

Yes, cables DO make a difference, but only involve three factors: wire gauge, length and quality of termination. As long as you have those factors in hand, they all sound the same.

KenB (not verified) -- Sat, 11/28/2009 - 20:35

Hear, hear Jaymz. I try to explain the same logic to my wife. All jewelry is the same too. As long as it has the same size and grade stone and the same amount of gold. Somehow she feels an looks different with each necklace, ring or bracelet she wears - if you ask me it's all in her head. A $999 ring is a $999 ring. Could you say that cables are the same - the jewelry of the hi-fi industry - or do some manufacturers know their way around their product better than others? (by the way, beside the infinite variations within your 3 factors, you left a few factors off. You might add metal type, metal purity, surface treatments, sheathing materials, and vibration control - that's 8 factors - there must be others we've missed - resulting in b/millions of variants). Hey, maybe my wife's onto something....

Albert G (not verified) -- Sat, 11/28/2009 - 05:31

"A typical hi-fi system will need one pair of loudspeaker cables (two pairs for bi-wiring), one long pair of interconnects between the preamplifier and power amplifier, and several short interconnect pairs for connections between source components (such as a turntable or CD player) and the preamplifier. (Systems based on an integrated amplifier obviously don’t need the long interconnect between a preamplifier and power amp.)"

Why the interconnect between preamp and amp should be long and how much is long?

Albert

Tony Crocker (not verified) -- Sat, 11/28/2009 - 10:56

Proper matching of equipment and room setup is obviously the first step in getting the most of your sound system. Then the changes come incrementally and add up over time. Proper positioning of cables to reduce the magnetic interference (keep power 12 inches from signal and cross at 90 degrees) reduces noise. Adding power conditioners and better power cables with RFI shielding, such as Audioquest NRG2 or 3, reduces noise and increases “black levels” (for proof look to sensitive lap top computers with the magnetic shielding where the cord plugs into the computer). Add Faraday cages to equipment that do not shield their transformers (for proof put a cell phone in a Faraday cage and notice the reduction in signal strength). Changing to better speaker cables also adds incremental changes. I use Nordost Blue Heaven and have noticed an incremental change over quality stranded 12 wiring. Play a cd change the cable and play again. If you do not notice an incremental change then return it. In time enough incremental changes add up. This does not mean that you need to spend a fortune. Look at what the reviewers use and then use some common sense in your purchases.

Watts Martin (not verified) -- Sat, 11/28/2009 - 15:09

Goodness, it certainly wasn't predictable that an article on cables would bring out the skeptics, was it. :)

What matters in a cable electrically is impedance and resistance, signal loss, and interference. That's not all that matters in a cable, though -- in actual practice, things like flexibility and to some degree even aesthetics do matter. (My standard response to the old saw about "you won't be able to tell the difference between the system wired with $1000 cables and the system wired with coat hangers" is that the system wired with coat hangers is the one with the guy behind it going, "No! Get in that socket! For the love of God, bend! Oh, [EXPLETIVE DELETED] everything shorted out again...")

While my personal limit on cable expense is far below Mr. Harley's, so is my personal limit on A/V equipment. Let's be realistic: if you have the income necessary to describe a $7500 pair of speakers as "relatively inexpensive" (looking at John Aktinson's review of the Sonus Faber Cremona speakers in Stereophile, but I'm taking this as a fairly common example of what's considered "inexpensive" in the audiophile arena), spending a few hundred more on cables is not going to strike you as overpriced.

And in fact, I bought low-end ($60) Transparent interconnects years ago with a $500 Rotel CD player. Were they worth it? I dunno. Did they sound better than the $10 Archer Golds from Radio Shack? Yeah, I honestly think so. I no longer have that CD player, but I still have the cables. Analog interconnects strike me as probably the most important place not to cop the just-use-a-coat-hanger attitude.

Good article -- although I do sometimes wish that TAS in particular had a better understanding that for the vast majority of folks out here, "budget audio system" does not mean "under $5K." In the non-audiophile world, suggest that you're looking at a $1500 A/V receiver -- not a $1500 two-channel amp, mind you -- and friends look at you as if you've gone absolutely mad. :)

nuri58 (not verified) -- Wed, 12/02/2009 - 06:20

I have tried very thin cables and mid range cables + som high-end. Between the very thin cables and the rest a difference most possible due to the higher resistivity due to the little mm2. I have seen a a fun test where the interconnects were shown, explained and connected the reviewers praising the one cable over the other. The trick was that the cable was never changed in reality - the demonstrated cables just plugged into blinds :). Now, I wonder about the small miles of cables running inside your amp or other unit. What type are those? If priced anywhere near the highend interconects any amp would double in cost! SInce it is said the chain is only as good as the weakest link, should we not have the units revired accordingly? To me the power cable takes the price - what about the wall cable, and the cable from the house to the plant? Well a filter on the cable may be able to surpress some flutuations, that's OK (although the amp ought to have a build in filter for just that). A rep of one of the respected cable manufactors told that the important is the square and the plugs being a bit rough in the surface to make the best contact. Other than that ...

Seeker (not verified) -- Tue, 12/08/2009 - 11:21

It's allmost funny to read all the commentaries here.... so different!
For me, it is an evidence that:
1- Higher price does not allways mean higher quality, but it could be. I've changed one of my interconnect from silver to copper because it sound better here with all my components in this room for allmost half the price.
2- I don't care how it is made, I just care how it sounds.
3- Sound system are like cars. A Ferrari must be well tuned to give it's best, but for a Toyota or a Honda, it's less dramatic. Good sound system are affect by a lot of things like: electricity, static, the quality of the wood in the stand.... I've changed three times my electrical outlet with benefit all the times.
4- Cables are the polishing finish of all sound system because they tune the system to your preferences in your room.

All content, design, and layout are Copyright © 1999 - 2011 NextScreen. All Rights Reserved.
Reproduction in whole or part in any form or medium without specific written permission is prohibited.